Bicycling in Rainy Weather

You can be comfortable riding in the rain when you wear some rain-weather clothing, have the right equipment on your bike, and know the techniques of riding on wet, slippery streets.

Clothing for rainy weather

The type of clothing you wear depends on if you plan to accept that you’re going to get wet or do all you can to stay dry. Getting wet is best for quick trips, where you won't be out long, or long trips because your body will generate enough heat to keep warm. Either way, you must be able to warm up quickly after your ride so you don’t get a chill.

If you’re going to get wet, plan to wear the following:

• Breathable under layers
• Light gloves and neoprene half-shoe covers
• Waterproof jacket or multiple breathable layers and non-waterproof, breathable leggings

If you’re trying to stay dry, wear the following:

• Breathable under layers
• Waterproof gloves and waterproof full shoe covers
• Waterproof jacket and pants

Degrees of waterproofing.

• “Waterproof and breathable” with vents and adjustable neck and cuffs is ideal. This will keep you dry as the adjustable vents and cuffs let you adjust for changes in weather and ride at different speeds.
• “Water resistant,” or even “Highly water resistant,” on the label means the item is not waterproof at all.
• “Waterproof” outerwear can cause condensation on the inside, so you’re wet with sweat.
• “Waterproof and breathable” material will keep you dry and is OK if you’re riding slowly and don’t sweat, because it can still only cope with moderate moisture and if you perspire it may condense inside the jacket.

Techniques for riding when it's wet, cold and dark

Bicycles almost never slip unless you turn too quickly or sharply, or ride across wet leaves or metal. Remember the following when riding when it’s raining or dark.

• In the rain, be very careful on metal (railroad tracks, manhole covers, metal sheets in the street over street work areas), wet leaves and the white paint pavement markings. All these are slicker than you can imagine when wet and your tires can go right out from under you.
• When the street is wet, ride slower since it takes longer to stop.
• In the dark you’ll ride slower because you can’t see far ahead.
• Vehicle drivers can’t judge speed and distance as well in the dark. Watch for drivers turning left and right across your path and pulling out of side streets.
• When it’s dark and raining, dirty car windshields and old wipers can make it very difficult to drivers to see.
• Avoid roads with poor lighting or fast traffic.
• If you can change the time of your trip, monitor the approaching rain and leave when it has passed.

Getting your bike ready -- Equipment

It doesn’t take much to get your bike ready to ride in winter. Many people ride their regular bicycle in the winter and others get an old beater bike so they won’t have to worry about water and grime on the bike. Some people ride road bikes in winter, some ride a mountain bike. The important thing is to clean your bike after every ride. Give it a light shower with the hose and wipe it off.

You will want the following equipment:

• Lights. Make sure you are well lit from dusk on, and especially in the rain. You can spend $20 or $300 depending on which lighting system you decide to buy. A bright, white front light and red tail light are necessary day or night in the winter.

There is no limit to how many lights/ reflective items you can have on your person or your bike. The main point is that they should be BRIGHT, so test them often. LED lights are very bright and work well as front lights. If you ride fast, choose a narrow beam. If you ride slowly, use a broad beam light. With a very bright front light you’ll feel more confidant and safe. You can also mount a light on your helmet which allows you to point a light at a vehicle driver that may not have seen you.

Use a bright red rear LED light. Have it in flashing mode at dusk and on but not flashing after street lights come on. (It’s harder for a car driver to judge distance when the light is flashing.)

Being “well-lit” means others can see you. If someone can’t see you they are limited in the amount of reaction time they have in interacting with you, passing you, etc. Being seen is especially important during winter months when the pavement is likely to be wet. If someone cuts in front of you because they didn’t see you, and you need to stop suddenly, you’re more likely to skid. If a vehicle driver can’t see you, they may be required to stop suddenly, endangering many.

Little red, flashing lights work great if you attach them to the back of your bike or even to your clothing, and you may have seen bicyclists that are very “well lit,” with a flashing red light on their helmet, their back pack, the back of their seat, and a rack in the back.

Lights are an investment, so keep them safe from theft, and dry, by taking them off your bike when you are inside.

• Reflectors. Bicyclists are required by law to have a reflector in the rear and on the pedals and sides of your bicycle.

For additional visibility, purchase reflective pant leg straps and reflective strips to apply to your helmet, bag, bicycle and clothing. You can also purchase a highly reflective vest/ jacket.

• Tires. Tires that cover the greatest surface area are best because they give you more stability. You can increase contact with the street by using wider tires or letting some of the air out of your tires. Wider rims are also being made by several companies. Tread doesn’t make much difference because asphalt provides enough texture on the street.
• Fenders and Chain Guard. Front and back fenders will keep water and debris from kicking up and soiling work clothes. You may also want to look into mounting a chain guard which protects the chain from rain and grit and prevents your pant leg from being tangled in the chain. Fenders and chain guards come in different styles/ prices; check your local bike shop for options.
• Backpack, panniers, racks. Bicycle industry companies have designed a wide range of baskets, racks, panniers and bags to help you carry things on your bicycle. A backpack is fine for carrying small loads for short distances, but panniers, bags hooked to a rack over your rear tire, are better for heavy loads like groceries, a computer or a briefcase.

You’ll find the weight doesn’t really affect how your bike handles or the amount of work required to pedal the bike once you’re moving. Just make sure both the rack and panniers are attached securely and don’t sway from side to side. That will affect how your bicycle handles. Because there are so many options (price and style wise), it is best to talk with your local bike shop and decide what works best for you.

• Lock: Be smart when you lock your bike; make sure to secure wheels, seat and frame. And be careful to keep water out of the lock joint; this causes the lock to freeze up and rust.

Getting your bike ready -- maintenance

Take extra care of your brake pads, chain and gear cables when you ride in wet weather. 

• Brakes.  Check that your brake pads make full, square contact with the wheel rim, not the tire or spokes.  Make sure you can’t pull the brake lever all the way to the handlebar.  If you can, tighten the cable using the barrel adjuster screw or pull more cable though the cable clamp on the brake caliper.
  Remove your wheels and lightly sand your brake pads every few weeks to remove grit that accumulates from riding on wet streets.  If they’re worn down, replace them.
  
• Gear cables.  You should replace brake pads and gear cables every two years if you ride in the rain.
  
• Chain.  Clean your chain every two to three weeks if you ride on roads wet from recent rain because the grit in mud that kicks up from the road or trail can wear out a chain quickly.  Clean and lubricate your chain much more frequently, (after every ride), when you ride in the rain.
  

Clean the chain

You can use a device especially made to clean a chain. 
You put degreaser in the machine, lock it over part of the chain and turn the bike pedal crank backwards several times.  Brushes inside the scrubber work the solvent into the chain and clean it.  A separate reservoir in the upper section allows clean fluid from the top reservoir into the lower cleaning section to replenish or dilute dirty solvent.

The on-the-bike system has the advantage that the cleaning machine flexes the links and spins the rollers. This scrubbing action may do a better job of cleaning the inner part of the chain than taking the chain off.

Lubricate the chain

Types of chain lube:

• Petroleum-based.  Lasts long and helps clean the chain as it goes on.  Wipe the chain well after application as oils attract grit which can wear the chain.  Especially good for rusty chains.
• Wax-based.  Work well but seem to need more frequent applications.  Stay cleaner than petroleum oils.  Good choice for those who keep their bike inside.
• Teflon.  Doesn’t stay on very well.  Best used in light applications such as lubing cables, shifters.
• Other synthetic.  Usually work well having many of the good characteristics of both petroleum and wax-based oils.
• Avoid sprays, car oils, WD-40 and anything else sold at chain department or auto supply stores.  They don’t lube well, get junk all over and attract dirt.

Five steps to lubing your chain:

1. Cover the floor with newspaper (and cover the rear tire because petroleum-based lube will erode the rubber).  Shift the chain to the outermost chain ring on the front and back.
2. Hold the lube bottle upside down close to the chain, over the rollers, and drip oil to each gap where two links overlap as you spin the pedal crank backwards. 
3. Work the oil in by spinning the chain backwards rapidly for a minute.  You should see dirty oil begin to seep out near the edges of the links.
4. Wipe a lot.  Using a paper towel or a rag, wipe the chain, rear derailleur pulleys (the two little wheels below the rear gears), and the front gear until the chain is quite dry and you pick up very little grime with each new wipe.

Don’t worry about wiping off the oil you just put on. It’s practically impossible to wipe too much. The parts of the chain that need lubrication are deep inside and plenty of lubricant will remain on them no mater how much you wipe the outside.  As long as you use an extremely moisture-absorbent paper towel, wipe more than you think is necessary.

5. If you don’t need to ride immediately, let the chain dry for several hours.  The part of the oil that lubricates is usually a solid, suspended in a liquid carrier.  The more of the carrier that dries, the less it will attract dust and the less your chain will wear.